New 63 owner

[JeffinMooresville]

Hi, new to the board. Great information here. Found a project truck and ready to start the project. I have read everything i can find , truck was painted back in the day, so who knows what is underneath. Underside looks ok with some rust in cab corners, under cab mount etc. motor was swapped with 390 and c6 auto... runs ok but smokes and slings oil, so both motor and trans heading for rebuild shop.

First plan of attack is to take full pic inventory and pullmfront clip so i can pull motor/ trans and rebuilt front steering and brakes.







I moved some of the pictures on postimage, and screwed up the link, so some of the pics on page 1 and 2 are broken. I am working to fix them, if i can figure out which ones inposted. Pics ok starting midwaybthru page 2 and on.

Tip... dont move images beteen folders on postimage, the link changes.

[shipwrecked]

Awesome! Welcome.

Third picture- looks like you got the disc brake conversion by the prop valve and also the brake booster.

Overall from this angle it looks good. Always a flareside fan.

[Blanger]

Welcome to the forum Jeff, looking forward to seeing your progress....post lots of pictures (we like pictures..lol)

Jon

[Mr. Jones]

From Kansas City

[Gravemetal]

Welcome from Canada and I too have a love of the Flare! Those brake lines look like a plumbing mess unfortunately. Make sure it all works while you have the motor out.

[9Fingers]

Welcome from Virginia.

[JeffinMooresville]

Hi and thanks for the welcome. Yes... brakes lines need a little work. Looks like standard drums, and they slapped an booster from later year on. I can drive the truck around, and brakes actually function, so evidently they at least replaced drums etc. i am thinking going with CPP front disc brake kit, and replace the master cyl and booster if just for cosmetic reasons... one of the challenges is the clearance of the booster from the valve covers. Some of the ones i have seen appear to be flatter and larger diameter, so have to figure that out.
Backing into shop today and will start the teardown. Plan to post pictures as i go.

[My wife's nightmare]

Welcome from Mooresville, NC! This is a definitely great forum/family, the second
site I visit every day.
I too have started a 63 wrongbed that work has gotten in the way of for
the past several months. Maybe I'll get some photos posted one day.
Good looking truck and enjoy the fun that's ahead!!

[JeffinMooresville]

Ok, pulled truck into shop to start the disassembly. Going to pull front clip so i can pull motor and transmission for rebuild. I want to label and take inventory so i know what to disconnect and how to put back together. I have read the post here and elsewhere on how to do that, so i think i know where the bolts are.



So i assume i disconnect electrical here.




Also will pull this stuff off of the fenderwell, c6 cooling ( figure out better place to locate on reassembly) and what appears to be voltage regulator or relay, and another electrical giz that looks to be disconnected.



This one is connected




This one is not

[Blanger]

Jeff,

The first box (with writing on top )is your voltage regulator for the charging system, the second box that the wires are cut is the horn relay....

Jon

[JeffinMooresville]

Thanks Jon, explains why the horn doesnt work.

[grump]

Welcome from N.W. Ohio. I'm doing a frame off on my 66 right now. I'll be watching this build.

[JeffinMooresville]

Ok, made some progress today removing bolts and prepping to remove front clip. I followed some excellent threads here on the site and so far i think i have all bolts except for the 2 front frame to radiator frame. That appears to be a 2 person job and my son and dad are coming over tomorrow nite to help.



I only have one on top fender under hood hinge, that appears to be frozen up, so gave it another dose of penetrating oil and see if i can get tomorrow.

I was concerned about the radiator, but that turned out to be the easist part of the job. 4 easy bolts and lifted right out.



I am not sure about it though.... looks to be some gouges. It was running in the truck, so at least i know it does not leak, have to check and see what new radiators cost. I dont know if it was original with truck, i know the placement of the top input is not ideal for the 390 motor, barely clears fan. Perhaps if i replace it, i will find one with top input on left (passenger) side



One of the things i did do, was tag, bag and document the steps and where the bolts go. I am sure the old pros know this stuff cold, but my first time and i am old and feeble minded.



From the looks of the bolts I pulled, appears that i will need to buy new ones for reassembly.
I saw a great post from Max with pictures and part numbers for Auveco replacement bolts, nut clips etc. whyi dont know is if i have to buy boxes of 25 or can i just buy a few. I dont know how many others i will need for the future bed and cab removal, a couple of the bolts appear to be pretty common on the truck, but others are only for that particular part. Do i buy them online or go to napa, advantage auto... or go find some local specialty supplier to body shops?

I plan on pulling the hood and then the clip, when my help is here, so hopefully next post clip will be off.

[Blanger]

I am not sure about it though.... looks to be some gouges. It was running in the truck, so at least i know it does not leak, have to check and see what new radiators cost. I dont know if it was original with truck, i know the placement of the top input is not ideal for the 390 motor, barely clears fan. Perhaps if i replace it, i will find one with top input on left (passenger) side

Jeff,

While the radiator is out if you have a local radiator shop let them clean it and do a flow test/pressure test, they could also move the upper hose connection if need be of course that's providing the radiator is in good enough condition. A replacement radiator for that truck that is copper & brass (like what you have) is no longer made, your original radiator could be recored which would make it basically new, the complete replacement for a radiator like you have is going to be a aluminum core with plastic tanks or a all aluminum unit.

I had a '76 F350 a lot of years ago with a 390 in it that I removed the mechanical fan and installed a electric fan off a Chrysler mini van (whole unit shroud and fan) used a temo switch in the intake to turn it off and on, worked like a charm and was cheaper than a new plastic fan shroud which was missing from the truck.

Jon

[JeffinMooresville]

Thanks Jon, will check out local radiator shop. Mooresville has a lot of motorsports businesses here so that has been great.

Today was a perfect day, i was off work, my son and dad came over to help work on the truck. Rocky even got into the act.



We were able to get the remaing bolts off and remove the front clip. With the right help and all great suggestions and write-ups from this board, it was actually not that bad. Will see if i feel the same way when it is time for reassembly.





Back in the day somone did a cosmetic paint job on the truck, not really my thing... but its not horrible and is growing on me. My plan is to leave paint as is until after all sheet metal repair, and mechanical work.



Next steps is to pull motor and transmission and send out for rebuild. It has a 390 2 barrel, and C6 auto, and I think i am going to just put it back as is.






Overall, i am really happy with progress. Everything looks pretty good on frame, no rust-out of body mounts etc. ( cab is different story)... it does look like the radiator mount is rusted out at the bottom on both sides. Looks like i can buy a complete replacement for that from dennis carpenters for about $300. I stopped by there today, just down the road in Concord to get dash bezel removal tool and headlight switch replacement.... man that place looks like you could drop some loot in there in a hurry.

[grump]

Lookin good. I haven't even been to the D.C. store and I've still dropped a wad of money there. I got my bolts and clip nuts ( or whatever you call them) at fastenal. There might be cheaper places but I just took the old bolts and fasteners in and they matched them.

[Day 2]

Hey Jeff. not sure if this is in your rebuild plans, but it would make your FE sit down in the frame alot nicer. I have it in my 63,
https://www.cjponyparts.com/trans-dapt- ... 64/p/ESC1/
And it will work with those headers also!!

Robert

[JeffinMooresville]

Thanks guys for tips, yea Robert I have been looking at that clean FE engine mount. Mine has a monstrosity of angle iron and sloppply welding job. Appears they extended the frame with weld on angle steel and then welded engine mount perches ( i assume out of donor car/ truck) to those... really ugly setup. I will have to take some pictures ... alos the headers have zero clearance to the welded on steel.
And grump i think i have found local place that sell the auveco fasteners. As i take more stuff apart... started on seat today, looks like some common bolts that i can just buy a box of 50 for like $25.

[ratrapp]

my old 63 f100 had a 352 that was transplanted in the same fashion with a mess of angle iron.it was a mess to say the least.i'm trying to make my 66 engine swap look alittle better.

[LawrenceBur]

my old 63 f100 had a 352 that was transplanted in the same fashion with a mess of angle iron.it was a mess to say the least.i'm trying to make my 66 engine swap look alittle better.

Can't wait to see it when it's all done. I hope you plan to keep the original color. I really like it.