Found my Donor.

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » March 1, 2008, 1:10 am

AW, MAN,
Personally I didnt care for my 223 too much, but yours is cool. Too bad it wont fit. I like yours...

GDG · Post by **GDG** » March 1, 2008, 8:02 am

Deuce, I have 225/65/17s on the frt and they are close at ride height, I think I will drop down to 50s and it should be good. I also think that my frt fender is bowed in a little at the top of the wheel, when I install the other fender and frt sheet metal I can make a few adjustments if needed. Those 65s put a lot of rubber in the wheel opening, more than I thought they would. I've been working on the fuel tank and CV rear axle lately, I'd like to get the box setting on it soon and see where everthing settles in.
I am looking for a 4.6 or a 5.0 and haven't come up with a decent one yet, anything without a frt sump should fit easily and you could probably jack up that cool inliner enough to make it clear!!
Doug

Post by **Greg D** » March 1, 2008, 8:50 am

I just priced one of these here, $575.00 no calipers. I think the junk yards have figured out what we use these for so because we are a bunch of "rich" hotrodders the price doubles. Lincoln Versailles rears (9" with disc brakes 52 1/4) used to sell for about $150 - 200 back in the day until word got around that we were swapping them in to Mustangs, then they suddenly were worth $400 - $500, with no calipers.

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » March 1, 2008, 11:56 am

GDG that is one SAWEEEET truck!
[albumimg]3727[/albumimg]

Keep up the good work

JFCDeuce · Post by **JFCDeuce** » March 1, 2008, 3:16 pm

GDG wrote:Deuce, I have 225/65/17s on the frt and they are close at ride height, I think I will drop down to 50s and it should be good. I also think that my frt fender is bowed in a little at the top of the wheel, when I install the other fender and frt sheet metal I can make a few adjustments if needed. Those 65s put a lot of rubber in the wheel opening, more than I thought they would. I've been working on the fuel tank and CV rear axle lately, I'd like to get the box setting on it soon and see where everthing settles in.
I am looking for a 4.6 or a 5.0 and haven't come up with a decent one yet, anything without a frt sump should fit easily and you could probably jack up that cool inliner enough to make it clear!!
Doug

I will be moving the axle line forwars aboiut 1-1.5 inces to centerthe wheels up, should give me a bit more room. also I'll probably run the mustang tires (they are with the wheels (235/55/17)) We'll see how that goes.

I'd love to keep the 6, but while that set up looks and runs great, it's under the hood, and I do want daily drivability (ac and the rest) plus I don't really want to get into removing pieces of the firewall to make the trans fit, if I lift the engine.

So I'll keep up on the 289, that I've got floating around. I'll probably spice it up just a bit.

The 223 set up is for sale to pay for all the mods.

Garbz · Post by **Garbz** » March 1, 2008, 11:33 pm

The stock track width for a 61 to 64 is 60"

Be carefull with the wheel base.... the crowns run a flat front pan cammer not a front oil mount 5.0 or typical ford..... the engine will have to be mounted higher for clearance. And of too far forward you run into issues with radiator mounting. Keep an hands breadth clearance on the firewall to furthest rearward head.

Stock is 114"

Garbz.

JFCDeuce · Post by **JFCDeuce** » March 2, 2008, 2:14 am

Garbz, Thanks for the advice, I have a feeling this one is going to involve lots of mock-ups and a little bit of time. But I feel the IFS will be worth the hassle.

fordman125 · Post by **fordman125** » March 27, 2008, 10:38 pm

how is the CV swap going i just bought my 2003 CV frountend today just checking in to see how yours has gone

JFCDeuce · Post by **JFCDeuce** » March 29, 2008, 4:12 am

fordman125 wrote:how is the CV swap going i just bought my 2003 CV frountend today just checking in to see how yours has gone

on it's way, I will post some pics reall soon. I think I slightly over shot on moving the front wheels forward 1", so I'm modifying the plan a little. Still havn't had the engine in place yet eiter to figure out the oil pan scenario.

Tomorrow should be a busy day on it.

I'll documnet a few things then.

Post by **Greg D** » March 29, 2008, 8:38 am

JFC, check Ebay. Places like Mustangs Unlimited sell NEW take off Mustang Bullitts for about $600 a set WITH the tires, about 5-10 miles on them. Cost you about double plus to buy them all separate.

JFCDeuce · Post by **JFCDeuce** » March 30, 2008, 11:49 pm

Scored a set of bullitts yesterday on our local Craigslist, '06 Antracite grey (charcoal) with the polished lip. $300.00 with about 10,000 miles on em.

I did move the wheels back a touch, the alignment pins are about 3/8" further that the old bumpstop hole. They look pretty good.

fordman125 · Post by **fordman125** » March 31, 2008, 7:20 am

looks killer i love the wheels. the brackets that go on top of the frame rail are you just going to stack some shims or something in there to get them up to level?

JFCDeuce · Post by **JFCDeuce** » April 1, 2008, 1:43 am

Thanks. For the top brackets I intend to use a pice of 2x2 box cut to about 1"-1.25" I'll put a piece of 1/4" plate on top of the 2 stantions and then drill through it, and either tap it, or weld a nut to the underside of the plate. that way the bolts come up from below and are torqued, then the upper studs have the nut in place and torque down. Thats similar to how the CV is set up. (I will probablt use the 2xs inside the c-channel of the frame as well to give it a bit more support as it wasn't built to get that much lateral force on the top and bottom.

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » April 1, 2008, 8:29 am

Man, those are THE sweet setup.
Thanks for the pics, JFCD

I didn't realize they needed a plate on top, thought they were the same thickness.
no matter...

GDG · Post by **GDG** » April 1, 2008, 8:49 am

Hey Duece, take a look in my gallery. It's really simple to use the CV frame spacers and bolts and nuts or make up some sleeves the same thickness. The CV spacers are threaded at the top thus holding the unit in place, then you use nuts on top to secure the upper control arm bracket braces. It's a very solid structure, I didn't box my rails in that area but you could if you think they need it. PM me if have any questions.
Doug

JFCDeuce · Post by **JFCDeuce** » April 1, 2008, 9:48 pm

Doug, thanks for the tips, sadly I didn't get out the sleeves when I got the Front end out of the yard, so now it's improv time, However I intend to basically create the same scenario.

Next it's on to fabbing up motor mounts for the 289, and hunting for a rear end from the CV. (I I think using 4" wheel adapter/spaces in the rear would look pretty silly with how open the wheels are.)

I think I'll end up using a fox body oil pan to clear the x-member,

woodyp · Post by **woodyp** » April 3, 2008, 9:40 am

JFCDeuce wrote: I'm even debating going back for the rear... 3.55 Posi w/12.4" discs ( I think their chart read $80.00 for a rear end with brakes, just got to wait till payday.)

Duce,
have you considered an Independent rear suspension form a 93-98 Mark VIII, and 87-98 Cougar, or T-Bird? These guys build a kit http://team321.com/truckirs/truckirs.html
Their kit sells for around $400 but it looks like it wouldn't be to tough to fab up yourself. I believe this would be the same wheel bolt pattern as the crown vic as well. There are usually several of these in the u-pick it yards around her and go for around $100. The Lincoln had disc brakes, Aluminum center sections and airbags. some T-birds and cougars are drum and some are disc.
It might be worth considering, I am.

Post by **Greg D** » April 3, 2008, 10:15 pm

JFC, I see why your thinking the 2x2 inside the frame channel. Just out of curiosity why not just box it? Looking good, nice score on the Bullitts! I paid $30 more than that for my Ponys but the tires did only have 100 or so miles on them.

Found my Donor.

Wheels