I need to replace the bushings on my 65 F-100. I think I will cut the rivits off the frame bracket. For those that have used this procedure, what do you recommend? Use a smoke wrench on the rivits, grind them off or try a sawzall? My fear of the grinding is breathing all that dust (even with a mask). I don't have a lift so I think I will jack up one side and put a ramp under the front wheel to gain height. I guess at some point a jack would have to be placed under the radius arm or as I used to call them, strut arms. I hope some of you guys that have done this can give me some tips.
thanks,
Jim
Radius Arm Bushings
I've never thought of cutting the rivits as an approach to replacing those bushings, seems like the hard way to me.
I just remove the spring, remove the lower shock bolt, remove the big bolt holding the radius arm to the I-beam, remove the nut at the rear of the radius arm & pull it out.
Reassembly is the reverse of that.
I just remove the spring, remove the lower shock bolt, remove the big bolt holding the radius arm to the I-beam, remove the nut at the rear of the radius arm & pull it out.
Reassembly is the reverse of that.
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
.
Removing the hanger for the radius arm rather than the suspension is how most places do them.
I would recommend that anyone replacing them go for the urethane bushings. I replaced the rubber ones in my 92 Explorer with the urethane and the difference was amazing. The rubber ones have too much flex. The wheels toe out under braking. They hold the wheel center location better because they are stiffer. Turning, & braking are noticeably better & your truck will just "feel" tighter. They also help reduce tire wear and you will have less bump steer.
I would recommend that anyone replacing them go for the urethane bushings. I replaced the rubber ones in my 92 Explorer with the urethane and the difference was amazing. The rubber ones have too much flex. The wheels toe out under braking. They hold the wheel center location better because they are stiffer. Turning, & braking are noticeably better & your truck will just "feel" tighter. They also help reduce tire wear and you will have less bump steer.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
When I replaced mine, I used a come-along to pull the radius arm forward enough to clean up the shaft stub and ring, paint them and replace the bushing with a urethane unit. That's pretty easy if you are working by yourself.
The beam one can be got at if you lift things up & unbolt from below. I guess you could leave the wheels on if you wanted to. I bought the wrong bushings the first time - the parts book showed oval bushings for '66 but my old ones were round.
Doug
The beam one can be got at if you lift things up & unbolt from below. I guess you could leave the wheels on if you wanted to. I bought the wrong bushings the first time - the parts book showed oval bushings for '66 but my old ones were round.
Doug
I hooked it to the front of the frame - the 'tow holes' are just the right slot size for the come-along hooks. That way you aren't fighting the coil spring so bad.
If you've got the time, I'd go the unbolting everything route like Insane1 and Slick fan mentioned - you can really clean up the I-beam channel, get some rust block paint up in there and check for worn bolts. Plus its nicer to work around later when you are lubing or working underneath on the engine/tranny.
+40 years of flexing will wear on the tips. I should post a snap of a leaf spring hanger bolt that I took off my parts truck - looked like a melted candle. After seeing that, I don't fool around with re-using suspension hardware<g>
Doug
If you've got the time, I'd go the unbolting everything route like Insane1 and Slick fan mentioned - you can really clean up the I-beam channel, get some rust block paint up in there and check for worn bolts. Plus its nicer to work around later when you are lubing or working underneath on the engine/tranny.
+40 years of flexing will wear on the tips. I should post a snap of a leaf spring hanger bolt that I took off my parts truck - looked like a melted candle. After seeing that, I don't fool around with re-using suspension hardware<g>
Doug