a little work and alot of ?'s

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Anthony

a little work and alot of ?'s

Post by Anthony »

well it is finally warm enough to work outside, a balmy 45. (comfortably Iceman) so I got the front driprail/windshield area cleaned and to no surprise found more rust. can I just fill this area with filler and sand it down or should I be doing something different? I am thinking of filling the seam line around the back of the cab also. Is this a good idea? I can cut out and weld in patch panels and such but in the area above the windshield I am not comfortable to do. I am open to any tips and reccomendations. I just need some feedback. thanks guys, Anthony . [albumimg]5509[/albumimg] [albumimg]5504[/albumimg] [albumimg]5505[/albumimg] [albumimg]5506[/albumimg] [albumimg]5507[/albumimg] [albumimg]5508[/albumimg]
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

I would weld patches in if it were me.
Filling the rear seam, shouldn't cause a problem will just look cleaner - I'm doing mine.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

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Casey 65
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Post by Casey 65 »

Filler will hide the rust long enought to get your truck painted, then it will rust through and be a problem.
brian gilbert soares
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Post by brian gilbert soares »

I had the driprail shaved and weld patched, looks like a more modern truck.

Brian
1966 F-100 “Elvira”
302 C4, Mustang gas tank
Painted suede black
Interior black and blue
Locking fiberglass bedcover
Shaved raingutter and gascap
Rear roll pan
Lightning headliner
Anthony

Post by Anthony »

OK I know that welding in new is the way to go but I am not a welder and do not know how to weld in such a small area that I can not get to from the inside of the cab. (pic #2 & #5) that is a seam and I don't see how to put my pigeon poop welds in there without making more trouble for myself. any hints on getting this welded up? Oh by the way, on a positive note, I got the pass side lower hinge panel cut out, just need to get it welded in. [albumimg]5510[/albumimg] nuts.gif thanks . Anthony
Anthony

Post by Anthony »

that sounds different Brian, have you got any pics of the drip rail or lack there of? Anthony
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kstones63
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Post by kstones63 »

Anthony,
Here is a pic of the rear seam welded in.
Image
Welding that in was quite a bit of work but it was worth it. I thought about shaving the driprails but mine were in perfect condition so I thought better and didn't do it. If I had to repair the rust on yours I would probably shave them. I think they would look nice without the driprails.
Kevin
kstones63
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63 F100
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99 F250 PSD, 4x4, CC
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61 Merc
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Post by 61 Merc »

ELpolacko had some pictures of the drip rail removal and the mods done to his uni, not sure which site had the pics, but I got one that shows the mods done after priming.

http://fordtruk.com/forums/album_pic.ph ... ser_id=201

I think the others are on the old site.

Dean
61 Mercury SWB Uni - Project
62 Mercury SWB BBW - Race truck
63 Ford SWB Uni - Daily driver (Jinx)
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DV65CustomCab
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Post by DV65CustomCab »

re: drip rail underside rot. Welding is best, but if you can't do that don't use filler. It will blister out again. I would use epoxy instead. More impervious to moisture and rigid. May ask your local auto body supplier if they have something specially made for that. 3M makes all sorts of wacky products.
Stop The Longbed Hate! :)
'65 F100 Custom Cab bought 2002/Sold 2014
Now: '93 F150 Lightning
Anthony

Post by Anthony »

I found these on the net. [albumimg]5517[/albumimg] [albumimg]5516[/albumimg] I am going to try and stop by the local auto body supply today and see if he has anything epoxywise that will work. I think I prefer the looks of the driprails on rather than shaved, but I would do it if it was the last choice, I guess. (I don't feel that I am a good enough welder to weld the cab all the way across. there would be alot of grinding. :lol: ) thanks for the pics 61 merc and kstones63. I appreciate all the help. this has been a long journey and I'm glad I found a support group. :thumright: nuts.gif Anthony
oldtrucks
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Post by oldtrucks »

Anthony
The rust your pix show, were it me, I would go the route of all the drip rails removed. Even tho it makes for a lot of welding I think the results would be well worth it. If you take your time and do small sections at a time it should come out good. Trust in yourself some, ask a lot of questions and you will do fine.
Looking at the pix of all the drip rails removed I really like the look. It modernizes the truck very nicely. I just might do that to my 62 UNI.
Mike Kincheloe
Mikes Old Trucks
I restore old trucks and cars


1962 UNI Short Box, Stock Y block, 4 speed Image
1972 F 250 4X4 429 4 speed Dana 70 rear
1977 F 350 Camper Special, Ranger, Super Cab
1950 F7 Cab and Chassis
1976 F150 4 Speed 4 X 4
1996 Taurus
Anthony

Post by Anthony »

Well, since I like the looks of the drip rail on my truck I decided to use fiberglass mat/resin and fiberglass resin jelly. the auto supply guy said that if done right, the fiberglass resin jelly will work. ( I hope I did it right :shock: ) I did go one step further and mixed up the resin and mat and stuffed into the front where the holes were from the inside. Boy, was that hard to get to. any way just thought I would update everyone on my decision and progress. ( more in build section http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... c&start=20 ) thanks for the support when I needed it, nuts.gif , I think this place is one of the big reasons I keep going on this truck sometimes, but I know that with the help on here I WILL GET IT DONE!!! thanks guys, Anthony [albumimg]5562[/albumimg] [albumimg]5566[/albumimg]
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64low-n-slow
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Post by 64low-n-slow »

Looks like you did a good job finishing the patchwork. The biggest key to making it hold up is sealing it from moisture on the inside. If you can, undercoat or prime and paint the fiberglass from the inside and it will hold up a lot longer.
Anthony

Post by Anthony »

Thanks low-n-slow for the tip, I really hadn't given much thought to the inside. the truck is completely stripped out so it should be easy to do. will undercoating be better than paint? This is the first truck that I have done that I am attempting the whole thing myself. Slow and steady wins the race (First On Race Day). I usually average 5 years on the trucks that I drive and redo and I am on course to top that by getting this one done in about 3 1/2 years. cheerleader.gif but I am not driving this one, big difference. thanks again, Anthony :rocker:
blackagatha
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Post by blackagatha »

wow.... I'm surprised at how good that looks. I was expecting dog-turd city.... Just based on things Ive seen elssewhere...
'63 with 390 & lots of juice. But never enough. Always want more.
ImageImageImage
Anthony

Post by Anthony »

well I still have to put a thin coat on, these pics was just my second coat of jelly. Soooo, I,m hoping a thin coat of spot putty will even out the little spots in it. thanks for the kind remarks blackagatha. Anthony
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