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Posted: June 9, 2011, 12:47 pm
by BigMike
Resurrecting this thread.
I'm starting this job now. I have the DC seals and 3M adhesive. I started peeling the old rubber off and it is a PITA. Does 100% of the old glue have to be removed? If so, it will take a while for the first door (driver's door). What did you guys use to get the old stuff off?
I'd like to be able to do this with the doors on but I can see how much easier it would be with them off. Plus I could do it in the A/C instead of the 100* garage. I'm just worried about lining them back up properly. I know about the 1/8" drill bit trick though.
Posted: June 9, 2011, 1:08 pm
by charliemccraney
Careful use of a Dremel and a flap wheel might work to get the real stubborn stuff.
Posted: June 9, 2011, 1:56 pm
by BigMike
Well, I think if I want this thing to seal right, I'm going to need to take the door off.
Hope the drill bit trick works and the line up correctly again.
Posted: June 9, 2011, 2:24 pm
by qwertyd10n
BigMike wrote:Well, I think if I want this thing to seal right, I'm going to need to take the door off.
Hope the drill bit trick works and the line up correctly again.
Mike,
I just reinstalled my passenger door last weekend and the drill bit trick works AWESOME! I had drilled 1/8" holes in both the top and bottom of both the upper and lower hinges (four holes) before I removed the door and when I reinstalled the door I used 1/8" rivets to slide into the holes to line everything up... and voila, all the gaps are the same, the door closes great, and the seals are brand new so there is a good "thud" when you shut the door now.
Cheers,
Dion
Posted: June 9, 2011, 3:38 pm
by Obsa
Guys, there is a common problem with the LMC door seals. The passenger side is a passable fit not perfect. The drivers side is where the problem lies, the short curved section at the door handle does not fit the curve of the door causing the door to be hard to close. There is a simple fix if you already have the LMC seals and are not too "picky". Cut the seal at the lower end of the curve and allow a small gap when gluing them in place.
Not perfect but if you already have the seals better than no seals at all. If you are buying by all means go with DC
Posted: June 9, 2011, 3:50 pm
by BigMike
I removed the driver's door and got that side completed. That 3M glue sure does set up fast. The tape was an excellent tip!
I'll put that door back on in the morning and do the passenger side tomorrow.
Posted: June 9, 2011, 3:53 pm
by Uncle Skip
Mike. Don't forget to wash the rubber seals with detergent and let them dry to get the mold release off so they will stick.
U@ss
Posted: June 9, 2011, 4:08 pm
by BigMike
Uncle Skip wrote:Mike. Don't forget to wash the rubber seals with detergent and let them dry to get the mold release off so they will stick.
U@ss
I wiped all of that mold release (white crap) off with Acetone. Thanks for the tip on that because I wouldn't have done it otherwise.
Posted: June 9, 2011, 10:20 pm
by fire truck
kstones63 wrote:65fordguy wrote:Crap.. I have been sitting on LMC weatherstriping for well over a year waiting on the truck to get painted.. Surely the fit isnt that bad??? I cant imagine LMC wanting to sell a bad product. What is so bad about them?
Wait until you get the LMC rubber on the doors and try to shut them. You will probably say "they will seat in and shut right after a while" but it never gets any better. Mine were on the truck for over 6 months during the build phase and never did get any better and it sat through the Arizona summer heat. The passenger door shut fair but the drivers door had to be slammed hard to get it to shut. I finally bought DC rubbers and they shut perfectly. I also had to throw away the LMC window rubbers and buy DC to get the front and back windows in.
Let us know how they work out for you.
Kevin
i bought a 64 with lmc rubber already installed, they fit exactly the same as you say.
LMC=junk
Posted: June 9, 2011, 10:38 pm
by Brians1966
LMC Door and vent windows rubbers could'nt close the doors without slamming them
and could'nt close the vents
--- torn them out and replaced them with dennis carpenter's weatherstripping
so much better
Posted: June 9, 2011, 11:14 pm
by Rusted64
Thank goodness for this resurected post.
I was about to purchase the LMC rubber kit. I would hate to fight with it like some have.
Also some good hints too.
Thanks all,
Posted: June 11, 2011, 2:18 pm
by Alfs64
Rusted64 wrote:Thank goodness for this resurected post.
I was about to purchase the LMC rubber kit. I would hate to fight with it like some have.
Also some good hints too.
Thanks all,
Ditto. I must have missed the tip on using the drill bit to align the doors. Does someone have a link to that?
Posted: June 14, 2011, 3:25 pm
by Rusted64
Ok, so if Dennis Carpenters is out of stock, who would have a product of similar quality?
Posted: June 14, 2011, 4:55 pm
by 62galxe
Posted: June 14, 2011, 5:20 pm
by Rusted64
Ouch!
Gave them a call and they want 170 for the kit.
May have to save up for that one.
Posted: June 14, 2011, 5:46 pm
by ICEMAN6166
Rusted64 wrote:Ouch!
Gave them a call and they want 170 for the kit.
May have to save up for that one.
money well spent.
Posted: June 14, 2011, 8:36 pm
by jkimbrel65
[q.[/quote]
money well spent.[/quote]
X2
Mike
Posted: November 18, 2011, 8:29 am
by edselcomet
sure glad I found this thread , about to order door rubbers.
Re: Door weatherstrip
Posted: July 1, 2012, 4:57 pm
by mrgoob
Just did my door seals. 3m adhesive remover works great to take off old adhesive. Dennis Carpenter rubber fits well. For those that want to see pictures of the drill bit method to line up the doors here you go.
Inside the door there will two hinge cover plates like this:
remove the plate to find the hinge bolts:
drill a hole through the door and the hinge (both hinges):
when you reinstall the door you can insert bits into both holes to line up the door:
