Has anyone swapped out a tierod on a straight axle slick? Sounds straightforward to me but any tips or warnings would be appreciated. I plan on buying a tie rod removal tool, by the way. Where can I get a cheap one and are their any brands I should avoid or try to get. THANKS!!!
__________________________________six-two
Tie Rod Swap Straight Axle
You mean the tie rod fork-looking tool? I got mine at Northern Tool and have used it for all sorts of stuff besides taking the tie rod ends off. Don't remember the brand, probably Chinese. Sears had them too, but cha-ching!
It just wedges in under the dust cap and a tap with a hammer and it'll pop right off of the steering arms. Then you can unscrew the tie rod ends for cleaning, replacement or whatever.
It just wedges in under the dust cap and a tap with a hammer and it'll pop right off of the steering arms. Then you can unscrew the tie rod ends for cleaning, replacement or whatever.
"If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them."
1964 Ford F100
1967 US Army M416
1964 Ford F100
1967 US Army M416
Six-Two, (BTW nice Uni) you don't need a "pickle fork" (old slang for them). Hold a 2lb or so hammer tight on one side of the socket where the tie rod end fits. Then wack the opposite side a few times (don't be shy) with a regular 1lb ball peen. Should pop right out with a light tap. Don't make the mistake of believing they will come out easy just cause you have a ball joint fork either.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
Pickle forks usually waste thee boot as well.
I knwo your replacing it but I like to use a pitman arm puller. Add some tension and wack the mount with a heavy hammer.
Autozone rents em free.
I admit I have taken the nut off and rethreaded it partially on and blasted that with my hammer. I replace the nuts and cotterpins anyway.
Probably wrong but weel there ya go
I knwo your replacing it but I like to use a pitman arm puller. Add some tension and wack the mount with a heavy hammer.
Autozone rents em free.
I admit I have taken the nut off and rethreaded it partially on and blasted that with my hammer. I replace the nuts and cotterpins anyway.
Probably wrong but weel there ya go
Someday I'll get another slick 
Straight axles are fairly easy to realine, as long as the kingpin bushings are tight in the front end. Jack the front end up off the ground, and mark two spots, one on each rim. Measure the distance between the rims on these spots front and back. You should be 1/16 to 1/8th inch wider in the rear. You don't actually have to measure this, with a tape measure. I made a piece out of a half inch conduit, and found something round to fit inside it, and just mark the inside piece where touches in front. Then I check it against the back. You have to rotate the tires to get the spots oposite from each other. Why use the same two spotss on the rims, because most rims are bent a little, even new rims, if stamped steel.
Rich
Rich