Lets talk power boosters and master cylinders

[Leeroy]

Ok need to talk about brake boosters, read a TONNE of stuff on here and the disc side looks pretty straight forward. Spoken to my 'local connection' on their setups and what works.

As usual, prices here are outrages, new from the USA+ shipping is still cheaper, so looking over your side.

My new old slick has an original master cylinder remote booster (not working) and 4w drums.
Plan is to keep the drums for now, but upgrade to a dual circuit master+ booster combo with discs later

I've found this so far, but it indicates disc/drum or drum/drum. I didn't think master cylinders between 4w drum and disc/drum were interchangeable, or am I wrong here? Can they be used with 4w drums and add a proportioning valve when it's time for discs? This would be ideal because I could use it now, and after a disc upgrade + it comes with brackets.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... _500wt_689


This second one comes with a prop valve, but makes no mention of 4w drums
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221179900394 ... _500wt_689

Anyone used setup similar to these?

[SLICKCOLLECTOR]

the last 2 i did, i bought the parts from oreillys. the same can be had from autozone. the rebuilt booster units are available and so are the drum/drum master cylinders. look on the autozone or oreilly websites for the parts. i wanted the small diameter booster to eliminate the interference with the valve covers on an fe. Tom at flashback f100 has the booster brackets if you can't find them at a salvage yard. the booster will have the right rod on it to fit your brake pedal..

jim

[bmcgc]

MC's arent that expensive. I rebuilt my drum/drum system, added the booster, and stayed with the single pot MC, it was only $20. The dual pot MC is going to run me less than $40, when I get around to it.

[bruceandersson]

I've done a couple swaps on the 65-66 models which is extremely easy, just unbold the old twin ibeams and bolt in the ones with disk brahes from a 70s truck. I used master cylinders/boosters from the same and just had to re-position to hole on the brake pedal shaft. I think you can use the same components on the straight alxe trucks, just make the switch at the king pins. Both of my conversions cost less than $200 with some used, soem new parts.

[Shawn F.]

The Ebay link you provided seems like a good deal if it has the bracket and everything to work... If it bolts up with no welding or other brackets then that beats having to check local auto parts stores and ordering stuff. Just my

[Toyz]

I've done a couple swaps on the 65-66 models which is extremely easy, just unbold the old twin ibeams and bolt in the ones with disk brahes from a 70s truck. I used master cylinders/boosters from the same and just had to re-position to hole on the brake pedal shaft. I think you can use the same components on the straight alxe trucks, just make the switch at the king pins. Both of my conversions cost less than $200 with some used, soem new parts.

Can you give source information for the straight axle conversion?
LeeRoy, I don't know about Down Under and wrong side master cylinders (that should be good for a couple of well-meaning explanations), but I personally would not mess with trying to utilize the disc master cylinder with the front drums. Instructions for setting up the disc m/c for use with drums is readily available, but I would prefer to keep to some semblance of the original m/c design intent on the dual drum cylinder; then swap out for the disc/drum master when needed.
Paul

[Leeroy]

Thanks for the info guys. I might hold on in buying the MC until I have all the other parts on hand and can compare.

Thanks

[donald luster]

Check speedway prices. I boughj the disc for 63 ford truck a little over 200 and a mustang big block master cylinder

[Greg D]

If you do the disc conversion you won't need power brakes.
I originally did my Uni without one because I didn't think the 223 that was in it at the time would support the booster.
Pretty straight forward swap, you will either need to shorten a brake pushrod or take out the pedal and drill another hole about 1" farther back.
My disc conversion (with part #s);

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2647

Pushrod info for power brakes;

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=19275

Pedal modification;

[MadMaxetc]

I would do the bearing upgrade at the same time.

https://sites.google.com/site/madmaxetc ... ge-upgrade

[unibody madness]

I have bought a disc swap kit for one of my unibodies from a fellow member and have not set it up yet, however, I have added a vac assist to three trucks so far and all of them stop on a dime, if anything they stop too good. Without antilock I have to be carefull not to slide my tires.
If you upgrade to a dual master/vac assist/prop valve,and properly maintain or repair your existing brake system, I don't believe the original brum brakes can be much approved upon without an anti-lock system of some kind.

[Greg D]

Note on proportioning valves;
I didn't need one on the 62 (all those parts are now on my 64).
Probably due to the lwb and the stagger in my tire sizes.
Braking is affected by tire size & wheel base in addition to the expected factors.
If you run similar tires sizes on the front & rear you will probably need one.
SWB truck - you will likely need one.
Flareside (lighter bed) you will probably need one.
I may have to add one to the 64 after I shorten the frame - with my tires sizes I will try it first though.
I also kept the stock narrower brakes on the rear, pretty sure an up grade to the bigger later brakes and I would have needed one too.
The system worked great on the 62 lwb even in wet & other slick conditions.
It's a little more pedal feel than power brakes but stops great.