Slick 60's

OKAY. I wanted to reverse the eye on my rear spring and I put that in the too hard to do box for now. I did remove eight rivets on the spring hangar (rear spring front hangar) mocked it all up and lowered the truck to the floor and Damn, just a bit to low. Much easier for me to get in and out now so that is an advantage. I think my other front tires and wheels will help set it level when I install them today. I have about 3 inches from the bump stop to the top of the rear axle housing. Truck is just for riding around so I guess 3 inches will be enough. I have a set of seriously stiff gas shocks so that should help smooth out the ride. The nose of the diff went up a bit as a result of flipping the shackle. That needed to happen anyway since after swapping the differential and re welding the spring perches I wound up at about zero. Since the trans is 5% down the nose needs about 5% up and I think I may have hit that nicely. Has anyone here tried this method of lowering the rear of their truck? It is just a bit lower than I wanted but as long as the drive shaft doesn't bind I think it will be OKAY.

Bill,
Yes I dropped a '65 exactly as your talking about. Dropped the front with 3" forged axles. Sure wish I'd have bought three sets of those axles, but I didn't, the company was out of buisness the next year. I had the bed off anyway, that made it easier. The whole deal took one weekend, didn't require any adjustment, zero, at a bud's alignment shop. Drove it to Pate two years later & sold it. It's still on the road in the Texas hill country, 15 years later.

ILC

Hey William - there are angle shims if you run into differential binding concerns. Here is a $20 example: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Leaf-Spri ... ,3354.html

There are also providers with replacement brackets and shackles: http://djmsuspension.com/products/hs1130-4/

(need shorter shocks if you go this route and I have not asked DJM if C-notching is essential for this particular kit)

Good luck - let's see picts when you work it out.