Cut my springs.

[Shawn F.]

Well today I decided to cut the springs on my 66 F100. It actually had TOO MUCH POSITIVE camber so this helped things. I cut one coil off and put them back on the truck. It lowered it a little but not much to really tell a difference. It came apart, cut and put together very easily (which easy on this truck isn't ever heard of). One thing I keep wondering though... I put it into the clamp at the top and slid it through that clamp about 3.5 inches but didn't turn it where the end of the top of the coil goes into the pocket and stops. It is very hard to explain but for those that know what I mean, do I need to spin it more until the end (where I cut) butts up to the end of the pocket? Reason I didn't do this was because if I put the end of the coil to the end of the pocket, the bottom did not line up with the bottom to go over the bolt and put the nut on, it was way too the side and I would have had to pull the bottom of the spring towards the tire while someone lowered it to get it to sit right. I didn't want to have that much side pressure on it.
Everything looks like it sits correctly but I am just curious on that. BTW, it has just a little bit of a smoother ride, it didn't turn out rough or too spongy like I though.
Thanks for any info!

[Ford4jack]

Understand what your saying I mess around with vintage spring air rifles some.
On those the springs need to be flat bottomed or they buck to the side and shoot inconstant. Some you cannot get parts for so if I'm working with a spring I have found it better to collapse a couple of coils with heat then oil quince them & true the ends on a sanding wheel if they had to be cut or shortened to get the proper length.

Ok now that's air guns BUT ON A VEHICLE I WOULD NEVER TRY IT.

Its just not worth the risk in my opinion it could be a danger to yourself and others.

There's two types of springs that I am aware of on these trucks 6 cly & 8 cyl you might be better to try a lighter 6 cyl spring set than to cut them if yours were 8 cyl springs.

You need to remember they have to bend the I beams sometimes to get these into proper alignment and sometimes its hard and expensive to find a shop set up and willing to do this. One thing leads to another when you mess with steering components.

[66freezerburn]

According to a chassis engineering book I have and I quote
"Before you invest in springs to lower your car,you should be aware that your chances of sucess are much better if you simply cut your existing springs.All springs take a certain amount of permanent set after they are installed"
(meaning that the spring will sag/set to its opperating height after a few thousand miles of operation)
"This change in height is caused by the inevitable loss in load that any new spring experiences"
The overall point being that if you cut your springs to lower your vehicle you are better off than if you were to buy a lowered spring and have it sag beyond your intended or drivable limit.If a chassis engineering book recomends it I would say your good with the safety aspect of it.
The only difference between the reference in this book and what you are doing to your twin I beam set up is the camber change that will lead to increased tire wear unless the beams are profesionaly bent to compensate as the last member stated.

I hope this helps.

[insane1]

Ok... tryng to undersatand. You cut the spring but it is not seated all the way onto the depest part of the pocket? Right?

If so then yes it does need to seat corectly. Got pics? So I can be sure to understand for sure.

I can tell you what you need to know being that I have delt lowered suspensions for about 20yrs. I have cut a few spring in my time as well.

[DV65CustomCab]

The overall point being that if you cut your springs to lower your vehicle you are better off than if you were to buy a lowered spring and have it sag beyond your intended or drivable limit.If a chassis engineering book recomends it I would say your good with the safety aspect of it.

I don't know who wrote that book, but that may be the dumbest thing I've ever read from an 'expert'. Unless this is adressing very old technology or possibly race-specific parts it does not relate to most common road use springs.
Most springs are progressively wound, meaning the spring tension will vary throughout the length of the spring, i.e. the end coils have a different tension level than the center. So if you simply cut off the ends, you are changing not only the ride height but the dynamics of how the spring works (rebound and extension). Cut springs are always a compromise compared to manufactured lowering springs. Good quality springs will do their job. Cheapo springs may act more like cut springs. Most any spring will sag a bit over time, some worse than others. You need only look at the back end of most vintage Mustangs and T-Birds to see sagging leaf springs...the same thing can happen to coils, but it is usually not as dramatic.
That all said, I do not know if the front springs on I-Beam suspensions are progressive or not. Having to cut coils out of springs to get proper camber tells me something else is amiss with the truck. Wrong springs, bent I beams, etc. When I did my disc brake swap I discovered that there are varying height springs over the years, probably mostly changed in concert with the spring perch on the frame.

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

Nothing more than gets under my skin is this junk trying to alternate cutting springs front or rear, front coils are rated at so much weight according to motor size, I have bought couple of trucks from people that did this since they went to far and could not go back with so much expense, its not the right way , End of story, Not safe after you can loose control cross the median and kill somebody just as bad of some of the steering columns some people try to alternate. The cheap way is not always the right way..............................

[Fanatic]

Great explanation Dwight......too bad thousands will still cut their coils and some will even do it with a torch and on the vehicle( why remove the spring....I;ll just remove the piece LOL). Scary is an understatement.

Take note of all those Toyotas, etc. running around with the wheels leaning in so bad that you'd think Oprah was in the trunk. They go down the road with no suspension travel and would be out of control at any kind of reasonable speed. But next weekend they will pick up a fresh bottle of acetyline and cut the rest of their buddies springs.

Some learn from the experienced and some need to experience it themselves.

Tim

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

Gooooooood Answer Tim well check out the orange 65 on back of my trailer , the PO Decided to remove front coils remove all 4 shocks and cut 2 rear springs well guess what I got it for him being a idiot got the truck since would have cost a lot more to get it back right do not know what he was thinking or read it in some stupid book or website that that person did not know what they where thinking of...

[albumimg]3947[/albumimg]

[66freezerburn]

The book is called "Chassis Engineering" by Herb Adams,it is HP Books # 1055 and lloks like most of the material was written in 1993.

[Garbz]

We cut coil springs to the desired ride height all the time. Accepted practice in the custom suspension industry. You some times need to do it to either level the vehicle or meet the ride height. As long as it is cut in the correct method, Not torched the heat and temper remains. Most front suspensions, including slicks do not use progressive wound springs.

Coils should also be cut strategically to fit the existing spring pockets and restraints. A 65 66 with the extension limits still in place and the upper retainer used will not spit the spring out unless you do the dukes of hazzard jumps.. I am pretty sure Shawn has no intention of launching the truck for 40 footers...

I will be cutting my 6 cyl Dakota springs 1 coil. To meet my prescribed ride height.

[Fanatic]

Ah Davey my friend, how are things in AZ?

I should have been more clear and please correct me if I'm wrong.
We are talking twin-I beam. Cutting coils even in the correct way will have effects in other areas that you dont want. Castor will be all messed up and strut rods will be out of sync for sure. You are speaking of A-arm suspensions, I'm sure.

Just not the best way to go on Slicks!

Tim

[Shawn F.]

Well thanks for the info guys. I know some are against cutting springs. I know why and I understand. I have cut springs on my 68 Lincoln Continental to even the ride out from back to front and it works and rides fine. I took the truck out and drove it some and it's doing great and actually rides better than before I cut them. It's not too spongy or too hard now. It actually only lowered the truck 1" so you can't even tell a difference until you put it next to a stock sitting truck. The outside of my tires are worn more than the inside and this was my alternative route to fix it for the time being. I have new dropped I Beams and plan to buy new springs when I put them in. I am just waiting to get money for a new front end bushing kit before I put new I beams in. So really that is why I didnt just get the beams bent to correct the positive camber since I wont be using them for long. I may not even use the dropped beams, I'd prefer a MII or Dakota front but not sure yet.
Either way, on the springs, if you look at the top hat that holds the spring with that clip, you will see that in the circle there, it has a little (what is that word?) pocket or ditch like deal that winds around the hat and gets deeper and then eventually stops. Either way I am going to just raise the truck in the air and try sliding the spring (like a screw) until it seats all the way in there. Only thing like I said before is that when it is in there, the spring is to the side and doesn't line up with the bottom seat with the bolt on the beam... I dont have a way to get pictures since I dont have a camera now so sorry.

[Slick Fan]

I would think that if you turn the spring so the end is in the "pocket", once you put weight back on the suspension, the bottom of the spring will sit more evenly in it's seat.
I guess try it, then see if you can tell whether or not it looks like it's binding on the bottom seat once the truck is on the ground.

[Shawn F.]

Thanks SlickFan, I will do that here sometime this week as soon as it quits raining! Seems like everytime I need to get something done or want to go out and work on my cars it starts raining.

[shawns fords]

the springs bought on my 67 are variable rate factory replacement for big block. ut them before even using them just to get my caster within specs and my strut rods are as far foward as possible. 1/4 " shims which arent even supposed to be used on that suspension and still was not enough as well as ride height is way too high. But. the variable rate is for the lower section as the spring compresses, not the top where the rate is still continuous. I bet by the time I am finished I will have 2 complete turns cut out. the messed up part is I dont have access to a alighnment rack anymore. guess ill be buying some tools from speedway

[Shawn F.]

Post some pics of yours when it's done Shawn.... BTW, my name is Shawn as well as you can see and everytime someone is talking to you and says your name in a post I sit there and read it 10 times wondering why they are talking to me and I dont understand what they are saying. Takes me a second to realize LOL.

[shawns fords]

Shawn, I will, it will be quite a while before that car is finished. I need to get the slick done first, then get my 429 back from the machine shop. I have a few pics on my photobucket of it and my 69 check it out when you have some time

here is a link
http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s318 ... _tab_album

the front sits so high right now because there is nothing in engine compartment, with a small block it was about 1 inch lower rofl
I banged my front valance which is brand new when I accidentally rolled into it with the trailor trying to load it up in the snow. just meand I have to take it back off and pound it straight

[Shawn F.]

Looks awesome man I like it. A buddy of mine restores old fast backs and mach ones all the time. When he gets them from customers, there is NOTHING left to them and some even found near a river, etc. He makes them into a show car and VERY nice. Some people have 50,000 to sink into JUST the body work and painting. Pretty much he makes a new car because the only thing good on them usually is the roof and inner structure frame and that's it.
I love the 67 and around that year fast backs. I'm not a Mustang fan at all but there's a few I would not mind having.

[shawns fords]

Thanks, I have a guy up here that does that too. he can do a restoration on a 64-78 and sell it for 40k. these are also show winners restored to original condition. He has several that have been featured in mustang mags. one was a Beautifull 67 convert Red with black, deluxe interior. I was looking at it one day on a forklift just a stripped down shell. the article in the mag even shows it in the same spot. that car took Best of Show for Original at the Rocky mountain mustang roundup once it was finished. Stolen by a Crack HO who was never to be seen again. I am sure that car was either stripped down to nothing, or is in australia or somewhere over seas