If you looked here then I am going to guess you have some welding experiance, I made some progress over the weekend and today, i welded on the trailer coupler to my 66 long bed and frame.... (i think i did an ok job) but thought would post some pics, not for you guys to tear me a new 1, but maybe to get some feed back on what to do different next time, (Hire someone)? I have some more to do to it before i can take it for trailer tags,
It has been a long time since i have doen any welding Sooooo with that said...... do you think i should bolt it together also
Some look good some don't look like they will hold for long. The long weld & one of the overlap ones I don't think there is good weld penetration looks like it stuck to one side & not the parent side. Pic# 3&6. Are you welding a trailer hitch to your frame? Why not bolt it on?
Yes, welded the hitch on tonight. I think i'm going to drill and bolt it as well. just thought i could get some tips for next time. First time that i have used a wire feed welder was today.
Looks to me like you heat is way down. Try turning up the heat and maybe increase wire speed if it's a mig welder. also slow down don't try to go so fast. You are on the right track just takes time.
A picture of a good weld. Notice the heat Penetration... (this is the upper hat for the Dakota cross member. Garbz is a lot better welder than I am that's for sure.
64 F100 short bed-style side-460-c6-with side toolbox and Dakota Front Suspension
And a 65 CrewCab
Is that a 110 volt welder? If so I would not count on any of the welds. Pretty hard to get the penetration you need for that thickness of metal. and to hold a trailer hitch on with.
I will get some more Welding time when i build a rolling motor and tranny stand out of what's left of the front frame,
I think that will be good use for it, i will need some where to put the 240-3spd when i take it out of my 65. Good Idea?
36truck wrote:Is that a 110 volt welder? If so I would not count on any of the welds. Pretty hard to get the penetration you need for that thickness of metal. and to hold a trailer hitch on with.
Yes a 110 welder.
it should be ok if i bolt it on as well, whats your thoughts(addvice) about it
The welds look like they are cold. It's going to be hard to get enough heat with that small of a machine. A well penetrated weld will be flat on the edges of the weld and not look like it is just piled on the metal. It is hard for me to describe, but once you get it figured out it makes sense to you. Try welding with it on some lighter metal and play around with it on scraps until you get it figured out. Practice makes perfect. Chris
When using a small wire feed welder, remmember that the wire is what is melting and not the piece being welded on. You need a gap to get penetration. That machine is limited on anything heavier than a 1/16 inch. It's duty cycle is not more than 10 percent if I'm not mistaken. I have the same problem with my little miller. Handy to have and fairly good for what it is, but lacks a whole lot umph. When you talk pnetration, then you need the oposite polarity from what a wire welder uses.
I don't weld much anymore, but you also can "see" a good weld going down because there will be a pool of molten, liquid metal which will be "eating" into the metal of the two pieces you are welding together.
This of course only applies to heavy materials -- in thin sheet, you have to avoid it.....
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'
Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
Not all 110 welders are crap, mine works good up to 1/4''. What gas are you using straight co2 or 75/25? When I'm building or repairing a trailer I normally like using my stick welder. Everything I can, I take to work and tig weld. I even have a 110 Tig welder I take out on jobs and weld Alum, mostly on towers on fishing boats. I also weld a hell of alot of stainless with it too.
Charlie
62' SWB uni 223
66' F-100 Short/wide 352
78' F-350 dually dumpbed 400
12' F-150 5.0 3:73 LS
The small welders can and do work just need to take your time, prep it well. And watch the wire speed.
It should sound like good old sizzling bacon in the pan when the welder is correct for amps and speed.
the SP100 has a duty cycle of about 30 percent.
You just need to take your time and practice.
A few of the welds look cold, penetration on the top of the weld but minimal on the bottom.
I would grind them down and run some more beads. Do a fillet weld, meaning multiple passes one in the center and two to the outside, and place a gusset on top of the butt welds.
I agree on the comments of the limited usefullness of the small wire feed machines, and the choice of going to a stick machine for certain jobs.
However, I'm aware that sometimes you have to work with what you have.
I would consider adding some fishplates to those joints, especially to any that have been butt welded.
I had a cop pull me over one time, who was on some sort of trailer safety kick, and he told me my hitch shouldn't be welded onto the bumper. Anyone who has ever seen a factory made hitch know that there are welds used to fabricate it. But I do agree that for total peace-of-mind, hitches, bumpers, and winch mounts should always be bolted so there are no weld to rely on. If everything is bolted, so the bolts are in shear, not tension, you will have a very strong setup.
1930 Model A Coupe and Roadster
1931 Model AA
1932 Model BB
1964 Falcon
1965 F250 CC CS
1966 F250 CC 4x4
1969 TBird