Setting up a new air compressor shop system?

[rderr]

I have searched endlessly which is why I am so confused at this point. Sometime too much info is available. Anyway, I just bought an Ingersoll/Rand 5hp 80 gal 2 stage compressor for my barn. I want to have a good solid air system piped throughout the shop area. My plan is to run 3/4 inch copper main line to 1/2 inch copper drops (probably start with two but plan to expand in the future). My confusion is with the plethora of options as far as filters, moisture removal canisters, regulators, etc... Right now I just have 1 filter/dessicant filter combo. I was planning on putting that right at the compressor. Is that a good idea? My next question is do I need to have filters and moisture removal filters at each drop as well? I plan to have moisture drains and take the air drops off the top of tees to allow the mpoisture to collect and drain off the system. Also, where should I have pressure regulators? The tank has a pressure regulator but I would think different tools/spray guns etc... would each have their own pressure requirements right? If so the do I need regulators at each drop? I currently have no air tools but plan to buy them if I ever get this system installed. I want to be able to sand blast and paint as well.
Thanks,
Rick

[Blackwaterforge]

I have a regulator at the drop where I hook up air tools and mist oiler.
I would use black iron rather than copper. You need a lot of volume for sand blasting.
1" or bigger lines. A automatic drain works well for helping keep moisture out of your system and also will keep cats out of your barn. A water separator is still necessary for paint guns, plasma cutters and sand blasting.

[Uncle Skip]

Sounds like a great setup.
First, make sure you have a valve at the very bottom of each drop.
Copper is such a good conductor of heat, you're going to get a lot more water condensate than if you used black pipe or PVC. Locate your valve at the very bottom of each drop and drain each drop individually before you use it. The airline fitting should be at least 4 inches above the drain.
Your paint gun air source should be the one farthest away from the compressor and if you're mounting a filter/ dryer put it on the dedicated paint line.
If you choose a drier, mount it at least 10 feet away from the compressor, but with the drop drains you probably can get by with small separators on your paint gun along with a small regulator. No need for a separator or regulator on normal air tools.
Good luck.
BTW, if you're using PVC as an airline I suggest using the grey Schedule 80, not the regular 40 (white).
Ball valves are a great drain valve too. Don't use a hose bib because of the packing.

[Hunter's 64]

PVC pipe not to be used in compressed air systems
The Department of Labor and Industries warned consumers and employers in May 1988 that plastic-polyvinyl- chloride (PVC) pipe cannot be used in compressed air piping systems without risk of explosion. By law, employers must protect their workers by avoiding the use of unapproved PVC pipe in such systems. Existing compressed air systems that use PVC piping must be completely enclosed, buried or adequately guarded according to specifications approved by a professional consulting engineer. Only Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene (ABS) piping was approved for use with compressed air, provided it was marked on the pipe as approved for compressed air supply.

In October 1989, the Plastics Pipe Institute (PPI) amended their original recommendations for thermoplastic piping in the transport of compressed air and other gases. WISHA's (Washington Industrial Safety and Health Act) Division of Consultation and Compliance Services now will accept thermoplastic compressed air piping that meets the following guidelines (recommendation B, to the PPI 1972 recommendation):

"The Plastics Pipe Institute recommends that thermoplastic piping intended for the transport of compressed air or other compressed gases be buried or encased in shatter-resistant materials, unless the piping has been manufactured from materials which shall resist shatter-type failures under the anticipated conditions. Specifically, above ground installations of thermoplastic piping should only be made using products which have been suitably evaluated and which are recommended by the manufacturer for the particular intended service.

"It is recognized that while adequacy of strength is an important element in the safety of a compressed gas piping system, consideration must also be given to the nature of failure should accidental failure occur, whatever its cause. Above-ground piping which fails by shattering can present a serious hazard to personnel by the resultant flying shards, or pipe fragments, which are rapidly propelled by the released energy of the suddenly decompressing gas. Because the inclination of a material to fail by shattering is determined not only by the nature of the material, but by pressure, pipe and fitting dimensions, and by the nature of the gas, the evaluation of shatter resistance should consider all these and any other pertinent factors."

NOTICE TO EMPLOYEES: If you suspect that a pressurized PVC piping hazard exists, bring it to the attention on your employer. If you do not obtain satisfactory results, you may file a confidential complaint with the Department of Labor and Industries. Complaints are investigated promptly. Call the Department's toll free number at 1-800-423-7233.

NOTICE TO EMPLOYERS: If you have questions about the suitability of a material for air system piping, call the Department of Labor and Industries Regional Office for a free consultation.

[Hunter's 64]

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We sell a lot of PVC pipe at work, that was sent to us years ago from one of the manuf. If you are sure nothing will fall against or smash it you are fine but if something does............... It will explode and send plastic schards like a grenade

http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=com ... ir%20lines look at eastwood's catalog they have some nice air line kits that arn't too $$$

Danny

[9166]

The plastic pipe "WARNINGS" are valid and something to be considered for sure. I will point out that if you approach any late model BIG RIG truck with air brakes, they almost exclusively use FLEXIBLE PLASTIC piping for their 120 + p.s.i. air systems. Not arguing against the above warnings but just pointing out that you could have an option there.

If you do use copper, use a 15% or greater silver braze to connect the joints if you are soldering. That is air conditioner system standard and will withstand the thermostatic and pressure cycling that the piping will experience. As a matter of fact, You can save yourself a BUNCH of work soldering 10ft. pipe sections together by purchasing an air conditioning "line set" of desired ID and length. It comes in a roll and is very easy to work with. You can then section it where you want to add your drops. The fittings for a/c piping are a bit different from potable water plumbing so that is a consideration.

As has been pointed out, black iron pipe has been in use a long time for doing what you intend. I had a 15,000 sq ft. truck shop and that's what I used to plumb all the mechanic's bays. The 3/4" id that you propose will be more than adequate for a "home" shop environment. But, I would not disagree with going bigger. Each additional 1/4" id that you add to your plumbing will add VOLUME to your system and that can be important when doing certain tasks like media blasting or plasma cutting.

I used water separators at each drop to protect the air tools. We did not do any painting.

I have always thought that a large dessicant type air dryer with an automatic "purge" valve would be the way to go on a system like this. But, they are pretty expensive AND they will chase away your cats. You might find one from a BIG RIG type junk yard and rig it for some rrRREALY DRY air! The BENDIX AD 9 (or higher number) would work GREAT.

There are 100 ways to do this and all I can add is that the more you shop, the more you know.

Good luck with your project.

[Hunter's 64]

the flexable plactic pipe is NOT PVC , that is the diffrence. polyvinyl chloride pipe is very brittle , that is the problem with it. there are plastic pipe materials that will work for compressed air , just not PVC.

Danny

[LM14]

Here's where I'm headed with my shop expansion. Figure it will cost my around $400 for everything to replace what I already have (mix of steel, plastic and hoses). Several sizes and additions available.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... apid%2Bair

The other thing to consider is high flow connectors at all your termination points and on your tools. Made a huge difference in severe demand situations at my old job.

SPark

[jamesdfo]

If you own a small pressure pot sandblaster & plan on doing any amout of sandblasting, you may want to step up on your compressor size. I had a 5HP 2 stage 80g Ingersol T30 Industrial compressor, and we turned the silver paint on the heads a light gold blasting with it:)
Using a dead-man type nozzle helps some, but a bigger one will serve you better, longer if you are subjecting it to blasting regularly...........

[grump]

If you are going to be doing any painting DO NOT put a oiler of any kind in your line and I'm guessing that goes for sandblasting also. If you go to Sharpe paint gun web site they have a pretty good diagram for laying out an air line system. It's sharpe1.com. Congrats on the new compressor.