The UNI-KORN

[slick4x4]

Converting a uni into a 4x4 ....
Finally figured out a name for this contraption
Pulled it into the shop the first of the year
It's rough with a lot of rust...
It's just gonna be a farm truck
Sticking a 300 i6 with intake & headers c6 auto in it
Already got the front & rear axles swapped out
Just about got the transfer case under it
Plans are to paint also..... not fancy.. just a smidgen better than rustoleum

[slick4x4]

A reupholstered seat & mat will make the interior look decent
Radio & possible AC might sneak in there eventually
I think I have a repairable headliner somewhere
And a rednek steering wheel repair (wrap it with tape) job

[04sd]

Cool project. Did you use highboy running gear? From the pictures it looks like it's mostly surface rust.

[slick4x4]

Running gear out of a 61 4x4
Engine from a 67
C6 from a 73-76 F250

[BobbyFord]

Non-Uni doors...

[slick4x4]

Yep.. on the drivers side

Truck must have been sideswiped
Bed has bondo ... door replaced ...fender repair

On a good note .. transfercase is hanging from frame
Now to do some measuring for driveshafts

[04sd]

Running gear out of a 61 4x4

So axles bolted right in then and steering connected right up?

It's been almost 40 years since I did it so I don't remember all of the details, but I took the running gear from a '59 4x4 F100 and bolted it into a '60 shortbed 2WD. I think the axles bolted right in and steering hooked up. Transfer case just required drilling holes to bolt the crossmember into the frame. I had a 460/C6 in it so I shortened the intermediate shaft but I think I may have still had to slide the transfercase back a little.

[slick4x4]

Yep.. exactly right
Transfercase has to set back some
The intermediate shaft & rear shaft shortened
The front shaft will have to be made because it's about 5" longer
There is a shop near me that will do all 3
For around $2oo & that includes balancing & new front tube

Pretty much bolt in ....
The shock mounts will have to go backwards instead of forward
No big deal ... swap em side to side & they'll work perfect

[slick4x4]

Engine , Transmission , Transfer-case all bolted in tight
Motor probably sits a little More forward & higher than some
But the c6 with divorced t-case gets cramped

Had to tweak the headers just a smidgen
Will get the intake bolted on & throttle linkage figured out soon

[slick4x4]

I would have never Guessed the 1961 transfer-case handle was a direct
Bolt on to a C6 automatic trans .....

IF.... you weld a 5/8 bolt head to head with a 9/16 bolt

[slick4x4]

Rear driveshaft installed
Intermediate driveshaft installed
Front driveshaft not made at this time

Tomorrow's agenda....
Install starter
Intake & headers
Install rear shocks
Bleed air out of brake lines & adjust shoes

[FarmMotorSports]

How tall are the spacer blocks in the rear?

I know when you go from the old straight axel in front, to a live axel in front, the rear needs leveled up.

I can't remember if it's 4" or something less... believe it was 4" for level and 2" for the stock 'nose high look'.
I know I need to watch for a set so I can swap in a front axel.

[slick4x4]

I used the factory lift blocks out of a 61 4x4
But they aren't enough to make it level...

The springs on a 2 wheel drive
are more arched than what were on a 4x4

But my 6 doesn't weigh as much as your diesel
To get it level with the existing leafs on your uni
My estimate is 5"-6" blocks on rear to get level

[slick4x4]

Finally got to hear the engine rumble !
It's been sleeping for a good 7-8 years
I have no idea how long it's been since the truck shook
The propane setup has been sitting a long time
Bolted on & hooked up to a BBQ bottle of gas
Engine idles & revs like it was tuned for the 300
More boring stuff now ... got to build an exhaust system

[slick4x4]

Was going to get an exhaust shop to build my exhaust pipes
But after talking to 2 shops & getting estimates (around $500)
I decided to build my own
I had some really good used mufflers , clamps , hangers off another vehicle
So I bought a 10' chunk of pipe & went to work
After getting under the truck & up to cut, weld , bend , about 20 times
They are under there ... not as pretty as what a shop could do..
But they will definitely do the job !

[slick4x4]

Had a miss on number 5 I couldn't get rid of
Did a compression test ... crap !
Thought maybe I left water in it & froze & cracked something
Pulled head & found this ...
no damage any where else

[04sd]

At least it wasn't in the bottom end.

[slick4x4]

At least it wasn't in the bottom end.

Very very true .... this just set me back a little
Come to find out it's board .060 over , new pistons
The head looks wonderful.. this is a fresh engine
The auto stores couldn't locate a valve
Its stock, but the stem is .015 oversized
The engine shop I went to found a set of 6
He said that break was probably caused by open headers
Or bad seal between headers & head
Will put in all 6 new valves & give it a run time
Of at least an hour , before bolting on front clip

Will just do some sanding & bondo till parts arrive

[9Fingers]

Tell us more about the carb and propane setup.

Is that offenhauser intake a dual plane or single?

Can the engine run on both gasoline and propane, in other words can you use a shut off valve and cutoff gasoline and turn on propane, then switch the other way?

I like what you are putting together.

Bradshaw

[slick4x4]

I'll be 100% honest and will tell you I'm definitly no expert on this
But from what I have learned from the internet & talking to guys
The intake is a 4bbl dual plane
The impco propane is a 425 model
What is equivalent to a very large 2 bbl gas carb (460 cfm)
I am strictly on propane only (I have a 47 gallon tank im installing)
The 300 i6 has been known to run lean on the outside ( 1 & 6 )
The intake & propane should eliminate that completly (my thoughts)