We have the 292 in our F100 and we are about to have the heads re-done. While were in there I wanted to know if anyone could recommend a nice cam and timing chain and gear set that they have had luck with. Were lookin for something a little more than stock.
Thanks
1964 292 y-block cam question
You can still get Isky cams for Y blocks - don't buy a cheapy Y block cam may not be properly heat treated. About anything else you could want is here.
http://www.ford-y-block.com/index.html
http://www.ford-y-block.com/index.html
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
just in case you don't know-NEW y cams should get NEW solid lifters when you install a new cam. beware of Chinese lifters-they will disintegrate. = bad. I say this also cause Y speed parts aren't inexpensive.
I have an Isky 300 in my 292 stroker which is in my 55 bird. Other stuff done to it, you can see the results and pics at this link.
http://birddropnz.blogspot.com/2009/01/ ... -test.html
OR here as well
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/T ... =dyno+test
You'll get lots of info pertaining to y's on http://www.y-blocksforever.com

I have an Isky 300 in my 292 stroker which is in my 55 bird. Other stuff done to it, you can see the results and pics at this link.
http://birddropnz.blogspot.com/2009/01/ ... -test.html
OR here as well
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/T ... =dyno+test
You'll get lots of info pertaining to y's on http://www.y-blocksforever.com

That is a really nice looking engine you have there.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
Thanks, I didnt know that. Maybe I wont do a cam then. I'm broke enough as it is.bird55 wrote:just in case you don't know-NEW y cams should get NEW solid lifters when you install a new cam. beware of Chinese lifters-they will disintegrate. = bad. I say this also cause Y speed parts aren't inexpensive.
I have an Isky 300 in my 292 stroker which is in my 55 bird. Other stuff done to it, you can see the results and pics at this link.
http://birddropnz.blogspot.com/2009/01/ ... -test.html
OR here as well
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/T ... =dyno+test
You'll get lots of info pertaining to y's on http://www.y-blocksforever.com
Couple things you should know. One the best timing sets is all Ford. It was a double roller set for the heavy duty models and I believe it started in 1956 as I think the original parts had 56 numbers. These sets are not cheap, but not that expensive either. I can most likely tell you where to find the gears and chain once I've given it a little thought. PM me and I'll see if I can remmember where I found these besides Carpenter. There are two different stock lifters one set is cast and the other is steel. One type can be resurfaced and one can't is my understanding. The blue thunder intake is reported to produce 40 more horsepower and at 400+ it should. John Mummert is very knowledgeable about hese engines as are several other people. One word of caution on setting cam timing on these engines. Some books have it wrong. The correct timing is I believe eleven links apart and both marks are set at three O'clock as you are looking at the motor, or straight towards the drivers side if that helps. Big valve heads come in about three or four different compression ratios, the most desirable being the ECZ-G heads that came on 57 312's and some 292's from 57 on up. Even these heads came in good and better. The better being what are called posted heads. I cannot explain that to you, but it is not complicated. Has to do with a modification made in later castings that is internal to the water jacket. The second most desirable is the 113 truck head, and third is the one used on the supercharged engines. This is a low compression head. The ECZ-g heads were prone to cracking if overheated, or had a burned valve. If you intend to use these heads, make sure these are tested before spending any money on these heads. I went thru 3 to 4 sets of heads before I got a good set. In fact, I think I ended up with a set of 113's instead. It cost me 30$ each to have these tested. I ended up with another 650$ in having the heads rebuilt. All told, I could have bought any number of good engines for what I had in these heads. When you see a y block for sale at 22 to 25 hundred there is a reason for these prices. I just went thru a stock rebuild and had 800 in it, and did not replace the rocker arms, cam or lifters. I had the heads rebuilt with new hardened seats, and used old valve springs. I hand bored it to 20 over, with moly rings, new cam, rod and main bearings, and gasket set. I have had extensive experience in hunting parts at reasonable prices, and there are a few bargains out there on parts, but these sources are drying up. Gasket sets excede 100$ now if you want the new neoprene rear main seal. You can still get original gasket sets from Carpenter for 80$ and these don't include the newer neoprene seal, but do include the starter gasket, which is a ten dollar or better item. I don't recommend old gaskets as these tend to be brittle and cork shrinks with age and has to be soaked in hot water to go back to the original size and also break easily. Paper and cardboard gaskets have similar problems with age. One word of caution on one particular gasket. The oil pump inlet gasket is unique to an external yblock oil pump. This is a large thick gasket and only original types are to be used. These are not meant to be reused, and not all galket sets come with the correct one or even one at all. This gasket is about 1/2 inch long, and has a metal liner surounded by neoprene or rubber . This is a compression gasket, and has to be a good seal, or you run the risk of ruining your engine by not getting oil to the oil pump and into the engine. Cavitation here will cost you the bearings and other components in the engine. These gaskets can be had from Carpenter for 9$ each. Other things to know about y blocks are there are two standard bearings for rods and mains. What Ford called red and blue bearings. One is 1 thousands thicker than the other. You need to check which ones you have if you are running a standard crank. There were even 2 thousandths over bearings available at one time. These are hard to find now but do still show up from time to time. Egge machine has many of the oversize bearings, but expect to pay a premium for anything you buy form these people. Their parts are not bargain basement but most likely of quality, although I cannot testify to that. Also be aware that in an effort to overcome the oiling problems of the y block there are two different cam setups mainly having to do with the center bearing that feeds the valve rockers of these engines. Make sure that you have the right cam bearings for the cam you use. I mention these things to you not to scare you off, but to help you understand the pitfalls and help you to avoid those. t"he yblock is an outstanding engine in many ways, but often maligned because of poor maintenance and abuse leading to some failures.
Rich
Rich

