Primer paint
Primer paint
Someone (maybe even myself) may have already ask this question, but what primer do you guys recommend for applying to the truck until it can get painted?
GOONIE
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DV65CustomCab
- Posts: 1497
- Joined: July 18, 2006, 4:23 pm
- Location: Elizabethtown, PA
Primer is actually porous. It's only purpose is to give the top coat something to attach to. It will NOT protect the metal by itself. If you are planning on driving this truck around or leaving it outside until it's painted, primer alone won't protect your work.
Having used an airless sprayer on my house, I would not recommend it for applying paint to a vehicle. It does not offer the control you need to lay an even coat.
Having used an airless sprayer on my house, I would not recommend it for applying paint to a vehicle. It does not offer the control you need to lay an even coat.
Stop The Longbed Hate! 
'65 F100 Custom Cab bought 2002/Sold 2014
Now: '93 F150 Lightning
'65 F100 Custom Cab bought 2002/Sold 2014
Now: '93 F150 Lightning
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FORDBOYpete
- Posts: 850
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 8:30 am
- Location: East Central Florida USA
goonie,
You need to use an Epoxy based Primer~Sealer rather than regular Primer Filler. It will seal the surface from the elements and is not porous. Also unlike plain ol' Primers, Epoxy Primer~Sealer can have fillers applied over it, or on top of it, instead to bare metal under it.
You can also add tint's and coloration, to some extent, to the epoxy primer sealers. They will not be a "color coat" nor a "finish coat" but can carry slight color successfully for a while.
Epoxy Primer~Sealers do not have UV protection and have a life of up to 5 years or so maximum. They are tougher to sand the older they get and the longer they are exposed to the elements. They are tough to strip off too.
Most of us use a siphon type dedicated priming gun. It's rough to prime with an HVLP or other specialty guns. With any priming coat, remember it is or will be the foundation coat for your finish job, so what you do to it and with it really matters as to what the final coat will look like when your done. Turbines w/ HVLP or Siphon type guns tend to Overheat air supply too much after a few minutes use. Heat affects cure times in most of the newer finishes available today, including Epoxy Primer Sealer.
www.AutoBody101.com can give you a deeper education on paint & body topics than I can here. It is all they deal with, and I know several of the guys there that started that site. They are Pro Body & Paint folks.
FBp
You need to use an Epoxy based Primer~Sealer rather than regular Primer Filler. It will seal the surface from the elements and is not porous. Also unlike plain ol' Primers, Epoxy Primer~Sealer can have fillers applied over it, or on top of it, instead to bare metal under it.
You can also add tint's and coloration, to some extent, to the epoxy primer sealers. They will not be a "color coat" nor a "finish coat" but can carry slight color successfully for a while.
Epoxy Primer~Sealers do not have UV protection and have a life of up to 5 years or so maximum. They are tougher to sand the older they get and the longer they are exposed to the elements. They are tough to strip off too.
Most of us use a siphon type dedicated priming gun. It's rough to prime with an HVLP or other specialty guns. With any priming coat, remember it is or will be the foundation coat for your finish job, so what you do to it and with it really matters as to what the final coat will look like when your done. Turbines w/ HVLP or Siphon type guns tend to Overheat air supply too much after a few minutes use. Heat affects cure times in most of the newer finishes available today, including Epoxy Primer Sealer.
www.AutoBody101.com can give you a deeper education on paint & body topics than I can here. It is all they deal with, and I know several of the guys there that started that site. They are Pro Body & Paint folks.
FBp
Last edited by FORDBOYpete on July 12, 2007, 7:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Change is the Only Constant
Goonie, I'm no expect , I won't even pretend to be one. If your just doing some spot priming for repair work, use a can (epoxy). Hit the spots till you can paint the entire thing. And do it the right way.
On a second note. I used a wagner power sprayer. And industrial rustoleum (ford blue). If you play with the gun and thin it out you can lay some nice paint. It will still need to be buffed out. I love the way mine came out it looks satin cause of the orange peel. I rarely follow my own advice.
Really I use my truck as a truck the garbage and old tires were not upset with the orange peel finish. And the wife say's it looks much better from the living room window.
bob
On a second note. I used a wagner power sprayer. And industrial rustoleum (ford blue). If you play with the gun and thin it out you can lay some nice paint. It will still need to be buffed out. I love the way mine came out it looks satin cause of the orange peel. I rarely follow my own advice.
Really I use my truck as a truck the garbage and old tires were not upset with the orange peel finish. And the wife say's it looks much better from the living room window.
bob
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shawns fords
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goonie as the previous posts said, its not going to protect the paint, but I can say from my own experience I sprayed my 69 mustang with PPG epoxy primer to get by until I could get paint on top. it lasted me through an entire winter I dont have the part number but did buy a gallon through local part store (car quest) and it only took a quart to cover the entire car, its a non-sandable Primer and will actually gum up the paper if you try to sand it. here are pics as you can see why I did it looking at the before shot 
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ripsnorter
- Posts: 607
- Joined: November 12, 2006, 5:23 am
- Location: Washington State
DP90 is a really good primer. We've used it on a lot of rigs, and I just shot a 47 plymouth about a month ago with it.
Its spendy, (I think its about $150 for a gallon with reducer) but very good stuff.
You can use an HVLP as mentioned, which is basically a gravity feed gun instead of siphon. They dont require much air to shoot, and you don't waste nearly as much material. However any primer is much coarser than paint, and youre usually best to have at least 2 different guns... one for primer, and one for paint, as the primer will often "grind" out the nozzle and other parts due to the coarse nature of it.
the 90 in DP90 is actually the color code. DP90 is black, and if I remember right DP40 is a kind of greyish-green. They have quite a few different colors however.
Good stuff though, and if I recall right its easily bodyworked over.
Its spendy, (I think its about $150 for a gallon with reducer) but very good stuff.
You can use an HVLP as mentioned, which is basically a gravity feed gun instead of siphon. They dont require much air to shoot, and you don't waste nearly as much material. However any primer is much coarser than paint, and youre usually best to have at least 2 different guns... one for primer, and one for paint, as the primer will often "grind" out the nozzle and other parts due to the coarse nature of it.
the 90 in DP90 is actually the color code. DP90 is black, and if I remember right DP40 is a kind of greyish-green. They have quite a few different colors however.
Good stuff though, and if I recall right its easily bodyworked over.
I agree, it's a very reputable epoxy primer. Can't go wrong with PPG.
DPLF Epoxy Primer comes in 6 colors:
DP40LF (Gray–Green),
DP48LF (White),
DP50LF (Gray),
DP60LF (Blue),
DP74LF (Red Oxide),
and DP90LF (Black).
If you're going to get crazy with the topcoat on your Slick (or anything for that matter), then you should get particular about the tint in the epoxy primer because it could affect how the basecoat color lays down.
DPLF Epoxy Primer comes in 6 colors:
DP40LF (Gray–Green),
DP48LF (White),
DP50LF (Gray),
DP60LF (Blue),
DP74LF (Red Oxide),
and DP90LF (Black).
If you're going to get crazy with the topcoat on your Slick (or anything for that matter), then you should get particular about the tint in the epoxy primer because it could affect how the basecoat color lays down.
"If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them."
1964 Ford F100
1967 US Army M416
1964 Ford F100
1967 US Army M416
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66fordtrucknut
- Posts: 1289
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- Location: Eastern Shore - MD
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jeffw
primer
I'm really cheap when it comes to my slick,, I went to Wallie world,(walmart) and got me a case of the cheapest rattle can primer they had,
this was two years ago,, I'd say it held up pretty well to the HARSH NORTH DAKOTA weather,, just check the ol gallery,,, some day I am going to buy me some cherry red paint and git er done....until then ROCK ON with yer slicks!!![[albumimg]2095[/albumimg]
this was two years ago,, I'd say it held up pretty well to the HARSH NORTH DAKOTA weather,, just check the ol gallery,,, some day I am going to buy me some cherry red paint and git er done....until then ROCK ON with yer slicks!!![[albumimg]2095[/albumimg]