Best carb/distributor combo for a stock 300?

[Oregoon]

My '66 F100 has a 300, fed and ignited by an Autolite 1100 and a Load-o-matic. The carb is shot the point where it'd be as costly to rebuild it as it would to replace it--as in a lot of machining is required.

Also, I'm learning that the Load-o-matic isn't very effective, and since the two go together like dirty socks and smelly boots, it's time to find a better aternative, being as I'm going to spend some money anyway.

So: What's the best combo for my stock motor? My truck's a two wheel drive, has a 3-on-the-tree and a 3.50 rear-end, and will be driven daily. It may haul an occasional load of barkdust or yard debris. Nothing exciting...

I'm looking for reasonable economy and a relative ease of maintenance.

Any suggestions?

As always, I am grateful for anyone who takes their time to lend me some guidance, and look forward to being able to do the same.

[Toyz]

IMO, the most "bang for the buck" is Bobenhotep's Duraspark conversion and carb upgrade. The beauty of his system is the simplified wiring along with a clean look and great replacement parts availability.
Paul

[bobenhotep]

Thanks Paul.

This is what you need to do.

Get a carter yf carb. They sell them on Rockauto.com. There are other places to get them, that is where I got mine. That is the one with the hot air choke. If you don't have the setup for a hot air choke, I can tell you how to set up the tube and such so that it works well.

Get a duraspark distributor. you can hook it to a stock duraspark box, or to a chevy HEI module. Mine is hooked to the HEI and a MSD blaster coil. The links to the HEI and choke info are below.

300-6 choke tube repair
duraspark HEI

[bobenhotep]

you can get the distributor and the carb off of rockauto for under 200 bucks. I like using the GM ignition module for basically 3 reasons

1 you can carry a spare in your glove compartment and it will take up little space
2 it is easier to wire than the stock ds box
3 you can get a high performance one very easily and they are fairly common. You can get them for about 50 bucks from JEGS, just look up "4 pin ignition module". A regular one is usually about 25.00 at autozone type stores.

[Oregoon]

you can get the distributor and the carb off of rockauto for under 200 bucks. I like using the GM ignition module for basically 3 reasons

1 you can carry a spare in your glove compartment and it will take up little space
2 it is easier to wire than the stock ds box
3 you can get a high performance one very easily and they are fairly common. You can get them for about 50 bucks from JEGS, just look up "4 pin ignition module". A regular one is usually about 25.00 at autozone type stores.

This is what I'm talking about! You guys are awesome!

[Oregoon]

First question: What does the hot-air choke tube do? I think I have an idea of it's purpose, but an explanation would be much appreciated!

Next question: Where do I find the proper Carter yf with a manual choke? Rock-auto only seems to offer R-and-R on that model, and I have no core.

[bobenhotep]

First answer: Air travels from the top of the carburetor, down a tube to the bottom of the exhaust manifold. The air is heated inside of a chamber in the exhaust manifold. It then travels up a second tube to the choke spring housing. It heats the bimetal spring so that it gradually opens the choke. This system works well enough, and was augmented in the OEM world with the electric choke. In my world, I fixed their problem by insulating the choke tube with a fiberglass door seal off of a wood stove rather than using the glorified shoelace that the factory used. The increased insulation makes the choke open the way it is supposed to open.

Second answer: The manual choke carbs seem to be hard to find. I know I had a hard time because that was my first choice. My exhaust manifold had the remains of a long dead choke tube so I put a hot air choke carb on mine. I thought briefly of using a manual choke conversion kit to convert it to manual choke, but instead set up the choke to work correctly. You can sometimes get the manual choke carbs on ebay, but everyone knows that ebay is a total buyer beware market.

[Blackwaterforge]

If you want simplicity and reliability Carter yf manual choke and distributor with points.
I have a distributor from a 73 on mine with dual vacuum advance.
I have put about 80,000 miles on my truck and I replace the points about every 20,000 miles.

[R Pope]

Get a carb and distributor and Duraspark off a 1983 or so truck. Wires and all. Worked for me!

[Oregoon]

First answer: Air travels from the top of the carburetor, down a tube to the bottom of the exhaust manifold. The air is heated inside of a chamber in the exhaust manifold. It then travels up a second tube to the choke spring housing. It heats the bimetal spring so that it gradually opens the choke. This system works well enough, and was augmented in the OEM world with the electric choke. In my world, I fixed their problem by insulating the choke tube with a fiberglass door seal off of a wood stove rather than using the glorified shoelace that the factory used. The increased insulation makes the choke open the way it is supposed to open.

Second answer: The manual choke carbs seem to be hard to find. I know I had a hard time because that was my first choice. My exhaust manifold had the remains of a long dead choke tube so I put a hot air choke carb on mine. I thought briefly of using a manual choke conversion kit to convert it to manual choke, but instead set up the choke to work correctly. You can sometimes get the manual choke carbs on ebay, but everyone knows that ebay is a total buyer beware market.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I can find a manual Carter YF, then I don't need a hot-air choke tube? Can't imagine that I would, but the dumbest questions are the ones we don't ask...

Also: Does anyone else have a good source for a manual-choke Carter YF? Saw one on ebay, for $279. Seems a bit steep! Any other places to look? I can rebuild a core if I have to...

[bobenhotep]

No choke tube needed on a manual choke. Manual choke YF series are not easy to find, from what I have seen. I know now to add them to my junkyard scavenge list. There is a kit to convert a hot air choke carb to manual choke, it is usually about 10 bucks.

[Oregoon]

No choke tube needed on a manual choke. Manual choke YF series are not easy to find, from what I have seen. I know now to add them to my junkyard scavenge list. There is a kit to convert a hot air choke carb to manual choke, it is usually about 10 bucks.

Last bonehead question and then I'll put on my big-boy pants and head for the shop: Where might I find this kit?

[Blackwaterforge]

Manual choke YF carburetors are not very difficult to find.

[Oregoon]

Manual choke YF carburetors are not very difficult to find.

If you can steer me toward one, I'd very much appreciate it!

[ras4434]

check for a PM from me I have a manual Carter YF that you can have.
Ross

[bobenhotep]

check for a PM from me I have a manual Carter YF that you can have.
Ross

Stuff like this is why this site is awesome. I was on the fence about the body style when I got my truck, but the people here were what sold me on slickdom.

[Oregoon]

check for a PM from me I have a manual Carter YF that you can have.
Ross

Stuff like this is why this site is awesome. I was on the fence about the body style when I got my truck, but the people here were what sold me on slickdom.

Checked and replied! Many, many thanks!!!

And I'm with bobenhotep: This people on this site are amazing, and I'm going to pay it forward by donating my longbed trim to a needy slickster.

[Oregoon]

First and foremost, many thanks to ras4344! His generousity is humbling and I hope to pay it forward wherever I can.

Second, now that I have a Carter YF in my hot little hands, I need a Duraspark distributor.

I presume I can go to my local parts-purveyor and ask for one to fit a '70 Ford 300 cid?

[Roger Carter]

Pretty sure the Duraspark came out a bit later than 1970, sometime around 1975 or so.

You will also need a Duraspark rotor, cap, and cap adapter. New 8mm plug wires should be in order, too. Spend the few extra dollars for the good pieces. You will be glad in the long run.

Also, you should be able to open your spark plug gap up a bit with the electronic ignition. Start at .045"-.048".

Good luck.

Roger Carter

I have a fresh head for a 300 with a load of work done to it. Big valves, screw in studs, hard seats, etc. PM me if interested.

RC

[Toyz]

Duraspark II is 1976-up, although there may have been some earlier CA versions. The earlier Duraspark will also work with the HEI module, and can be retrofitted with the larger cap, adapter and secondary wires if desired. The later unit is no more expensive than the earlier, however, so there is no real advantage to buying an earlier version.
The extremely cheap eBay one-wire "ready to run" billet units will also work if they can be found for the six. Most use the four terminal module, thus can easily be upgraded to a quality module if the need or desire arises.
Paul