Oil Pan

Bamatim · Post by **Bamatim** » May 11, 2011, 11:44 am

I just recently purchased a 53 F 100 that the previous owner had installed a volarie sub-frame (forgive them) with a 351 Cleveland. Why he didn't address it when he did it is beyond me but the drain plug only clears the crossmember by about 1/2" thus resulting in having to jack the motor up to change the oil. I've taken the motor out to clean it and paint it and dress up the engine bay so I would like to fix this problem. Do you have or know of anyone who has a set up like mine and what type of pan they used. I'm sure someone (Milodon) makes one but I trying to keep cost down but if buying a new pan is what it takes then so be it. Also have any of you had any dealings with Sanderson headers and are you happy with them. I noticed they make a set just for an old F100 with a Cleveland engine. Thanks for any info!

LM14 · Post by **LM14** » May 11, 2011, 3:43 pm

Why not just weld in a new drain where it has more access? Use a flanged nut and step type hole saw to get a good place to weld.

SPark

slick4x4 · Post by **slick4x4** » May 11, 2011, 7:31 pm

find a spot that is 'low' to get the most oil drained out, in a 'convenient' spot to get to

i would braze it in , but that is just me... my

Post by **Greg D** » May 11, 2011, 7:36 pm

Or you could "notch" the Volare subframe to give you clearance - if the cut leaves a gap just weld a piece of 16 ga in there to close it up.
"Back when" the Volare subframe was "the" IFS upgrade for these old trucks.

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » May 12, 2011, 12:08 am

slick4x4 wrote:
find a spot that is 'low' to get the most oil drained out, in a 'convenient' spot to get to

i would braze it in , but that is just me... my

I agree with that agreeance!, or change the sump to the opposite to what you have!

jamesdfo · Post by **jamesdfo** » May 12, 2011, 8:30 am

All the above ideas will get the job done.

If you are determined to change pans without bucking up for an aftermarket pan such as Milodon, CANTON, etc, the 351M/400M pan/pickup is a direct bolt-on, you just need to look at the various cars & trucks they came in and see if one of them is better suited than your cleavland pan.
The 351/400M's were used in full size ford/mercury/lincoln passenger cars, as well as dentside/disco dentside 2WD & 4WD pickups....

****remember, if you change oil pans, you need to change the oil pump pickup as well!!

James

Gary Seymour · Post by **Gary Seymour** » May 12, 2011, 11:44 am

A 400/351M pan out of a 4x4 is what I have for my '62. Get the pickup tube, and the main bearing cap stud and nut that hold the bracket on the tube. Dipstick and tube will come in handy - I think it comes out the side on my pan.

Bamatim · Post by **Bamatim** » May 17, 2011, 2:16 pm

Thanks for all the info guys but I came across a deal for a Milodon pan. It's got a 6 1/2" front sump, 4 5/8 thru the middle, and 8 1/4 rear sump. Both sumps have drain plugs. Alas as I was taking the exhaust off I noticed were some water had been leaking out from the head gasket. So what I had hoped to be just cleaning and painting and reinstalling has now turned into a complete rebuild. Once I looked in it I saw somethings I didn't like so I figured since I already had it out I might as well fixed and not have to worry about it later. Good thing I didn't buy that other truck. By the way has anyone had any dealings with the Sanderson headers?